Only going forward, because I can’t find reverse

…. Because the gearbox is F*d!

So, there we go, normal day on the way into work, about 3/4 mile away from work, when I grabbed the gearknob, and pressed the clutch, and pulled the stick from 3rd into 4th, and released the clutch……

….. and the RPM stayed the same….

So, I dropped it back into 3rd, and released the clutch – same thing. Bollocks…..

Quick drop into 5th -and still the blasted revs stay the same for any given road speed.

Fuckity fuck – I’m solidly stuck in 3rd.

So, that’s either a shift linkage issue, or something deeper, darker and much worse – something to do with dark magic inside the box of mystical cogs and shafts known as the gearbox.

A little bit of investigation with a colleague at work and we establish that the shift linkages are all working as they should when you stir the stick – but bits of metal inside the box aren’t disengaging – worse still – it’s possible to engage reverse, whilst the blasted thing is stuck in 3rd – needless to say that’s an instant stall when releasing the clutch (better that than whole gears or shafts tearing themselves asunder – or the cast case shattering and dumping 2 1/2 litres of stinky, shitty ‘box oil on the floor)

A little bit or persuasion form the guys at work, and I leave at 10:30, and make the 29 mile run home in third, and finished the day working from home.

Now – this is all going on as our new arrival is still in hospital – I need transport, thankfully I have the RS, but, it uses fuel like it’s going out of fashion in comparison – it’s why it’s not my daily car (and I kinda want to try and keep the mileage down on it)

Bollocks – definitely, and no dogs involved.

New Intercooler – and standard service.

I knew it – I heard it, I could see it if I looked in my rear-view mirror, and if I looked at the fuel consumption statistics – something was wrong.

My other (better) half would have said – “what, something wrong again, surely not!” – sarcasm is her first language 🙂

Let’s be clear here, my Audi A3 is a ’52 plate, 1.9TDi quattro sport – the PD130 lump, it’s got 227,500+ miles (yeah, proper miles, not those weird kilometer things!) on the clock – so safe to say, worn in a little bit, and with all things that age – and I’m going to use the Indiana Jones quote here “It’s not the years, it’s the milage honey” – this is ever the case with my A3.

Rear bush comes to shove – part 3

If you’ve been keeping up, and have read part1 and part2, this might not be the most hugely entertaining, as part 3 is really just side two – the passenger side – just *working* as it should.

7Dii_IMG_3164When some thing goes as it should – whilst really satisfying, it doesn’t make for a very good story.

Right: Firstly – undoing the bolt holding the transverse arm to the top bush – it’s dead easy.

Just move the arm about of the way and set up the bush press tools……

7Dii_IMG_3167….. and I am well on the way to pressing out the old bush – Right.

It’s so easy, it almost hurts 🙂

You can clearly see I have the caliper removed again, and to be fair – it is close in on the splash guard for the rear disc – so that was one thing I needed to keep my eye on, but really – it’s trivial.

Below right: And finally – putting new bush in place.

7Dii_IMG_3168Why was I using a socket to push it in instead of my bush press ?

Well – it was tolerances.

The tolerances on this side, once I had scratched the cup of the bush press on the first side – I decided to give this a whirl as the next size down didn’t fit perfectly over the rubber of the bush, but the socket did.

And after all that – put the car back together again, wheels on, and time for a test drive, by going to the local petrol station and put some much-needed fuel back in the car.

Photo-2015-02-16-20-24-38_3181The one thing I wasn’t expecting on my test run –  was this !

 

That ain’t a pot-hole – it’s a f* tunnel!

In the dark, the fact it was iPhone+ deep and was nearly the entire width of the road isn’t really appreciated in this photo – my back *DEFINITELY* knew about it for days.

Thankfully, it was a bloody good test of my rebuilt suspension – I kinda figure that if it stands up to the kind of stress, it will work for normal every day stress.

P.S. On my way back – about 10 minutes later after putting fuel in the car, a traffic police car had turned up, and was starting to put signs out about the pot hole, and to be fair to the council, they did sort the next day.

 

Rear bush comes to shove – part 2

Part 2 : Now I’ve removed the bushes, and replaced one, I suppose I’d better getting on with replacing this busted transverse arm.

7Dii_IMG_3126As you may recall from part 1, I am having to do extra I put the new bushes in, to take the old broken transverse arm out, and replace it with a new one.

Right: You can clearly see the end of the transverse link arm is bent out to the right more than the left. Note: I’ve not put the replacement bush in at the top yet.

You can also see that this appears to go a long way “in” to the centre of the car, and puts things like the suspension spring, drive shaft, and ARB/droplink into perspective.

So – getting it out is easier said than done.

7Dii_IMG_3143Firstly, getting the bolt out of the sub-frame end of the transverse arm was difficult. Despite all the normal precautions of liberally sprayingWD40 on the nut, and brushing as much rusty crap off the end threads as possible, the nut jammed onto the bolt as I was unscrewing it.

Right: This is how little the nut came off the bolt – maybe 4 or 5 mm – but thankfully just about enough to be able to get a hacksaw between the nut and the rear subframe.

Going to be cutting rather close the subframe mind ! Oh well – this is the sort of challenge that makes life fun eh ? 🙂

7Dii_IMG_3139

A somewhat further away shot (Right:) shows rather clearly that nice little gap between nut and subframe, but again just how far *into* the car this is.

This also shows now much of a pain in the arse this is being the top transverse link instead of the bottom one.

The black circular thing on the left is the drive shaft from the rear diff to the wheel hub.

Nothing to do but to get the trusty hacksaw out, and start hacking away at a 10.9 bolt – not exactly hot knife and butter time.

7Dii_IMG_3140Right and below: So up steps Mr H. acksaw and after giving me a sore arm and shoulder some time later, as well as “excuse” to blurt out a few choice words during – the bolt 7Dii_IMG_3145is cut to release the seized on nut, and I can start think about removing the bolt from the transverse arm and subframe.

You would have thought that the problem 7Dii_IMG_3120ends there right ?

No.

As you can see from the shot to the right, the top transverse arm bolt looks awfully close to the subframe to chassis bolt, and it could be down to luck and a following wind that allows the transverse link nut to be removed without doing anything to the subframe nut….

….. but no luck or following wind today ……

7Dii_IMG_3152

In their infinite wisdom, Audi appear to have built this thing such that one of the bolts that holds the subframe to the chassis does actually foul the path of the bolt holding the top transverse link to the subframe – ARRRRGGGGGH.

Right: Nut fouling. No, nothing like that ! Sorry – bit of sense of humour failure today . :-s

Guess what – the bolt that holds the subframe to the chassis is a stretch bolt that needs replacing when it is removed !

OK – it’s a dead cheap part all things considered, but it’s one thing I wasn’t counting on, and once I ‘d taken out the transverse link bolt, and ultimately replaced the arm, and put it’s new bolt it, I put the old subframe -> chassis bolt back in overnight, until I could get hold of the new bolt (note, I wasn’t driving the car, so it didn’t matter)

There is an awful lot of commentary on the Interweb about stretch bolts, and whether or not to automatically replace them as per the instructions in a workshop manual once you have undone and removed them.

Frankly, for the £4 or so that it costs to replace them, the peace of mind I have (and so should you) of following the replacement as documented in the manual is well worth it – there are very good reasons why  you should replace them, which I won’t go into – JFDI – Just Fucking Do It.

Replacement is pretty much reverse of dismantling it, just remember to torque everything up accordingly – noting that as these are rubber components, the final torque and turn must be done with the weight of the car fully on the suspension – which is “entertaining” without a full car lift or a pit.7Dii_IMG_3158

Right: Transverse link replaced, and looking for line up of the holes before threading the new bolt through.

Other than the challenge of the subframe mounting nut, and the hacksaw, replacing the arm wasn’t really difficult, as with all these things, slowly and carefully work through each and every step, and you will be  rewarded.

Whilst we are here, we should take a moment to look at what I’ve replaced, and why…

7Dii_IMG_3157Right: So – my normal – guess which is new and which is old picture.

Clearly the old and broken one has a wider U-shape where it fitted into the failed rose bush.

It’s really when you start looking a lot closer though that you really get the sense of how much of an “Oh fuuuuuuck” moment this almost was.

7Dii_IMG_3156Right: The rather terrifying close ups of the failed link arm

7Dii_IMG_3154

Good God – look at the crack in that transverse arm – I think “getting lucky” is something that I would definitely say here.

That crack is running just shy of 1/2 the way through that leg of the Y on the arm – and I doubt if a single side of a Y would be able to take up the strain of suspension movement on a normal British road of one side had decided to catastrophically fail.

So – what was the underlying cause for this link failure ?

A bloody bush.

A simple, less than £20 item.

These bushes are designed to have a fair degree of flexibility in all planes, to allow a degree of controlled movement in the suspension, and to give another layer of comfort to the occupants by taking some of the direct road vibration out at the rubber joint.

7Dii_IMG_3207Right: Seriously – how broken is this bush ?

See how much rust there is on the *inside* of the rubber casing ?

I took a video of me trying to wiggle the bush, but it is pointless to post it, as you can’t tell there is any movement at all – and that is precisely the failure – no movement, and thus any movement that needs to be “taken up” by the bush is transferred to the transverse arm, and ultimately causes a fatigue failure.

7Dii_IMG_3208Compare it to another bush that I took off the car, Right: – this one shows nice and shiny on the inside.

The new bushes are a of a completely new design, and aren’t “bearing bushes” – but appear to be solid lumps of rubber – they may well eventually perish, but it will be slow, and quite obvious – rather than this inside out corrosion and relatively quick failure.

Now – that’s my drivers side all fixed, I need to get on with the passenger side in part 3.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Rear bush comes to shove – part 1

This one really should start with an “OH FUCK!”

Really, it needs to….

It’s not everyday you are poking around at the back of your daily commuter car, standard “are the brake pads thick enough”, “are the tyres looking like Telly Savalas yet ?”  and you spot something that really makes you go “OH FUCK!”

Well – this is one of them – my transverse link arm has a fucking crack!

I can see the (head)light!

Olivia, and other cars of her species, and close species (Golf MKIV’s, some Seats and Skoda’s) and vintage, i.e, almost all Audi A3 8L’s have a little problem with their headlights – they are plastic, and eventually degrade, causing what was a good headlight to be worse than a candle at 20 miles, with your eyes shut.

What really did it for me thought, was driving home one night, and Olivia was casting her own shadow, in her own headlights light, from the headlights of the car behind !

Something had to be done – so Fleabay was where I went….. and picked up a pair of headlamp units for about 80 quid.

Standard service

It’s Christmas Eve – I’m not seeing my gorgeous Cath today, and although I am a man, I am ready for Christmas itself, I have a few hours to kill – and it’s that time again, time to make Olivia run a little bit better than she has been over the last few weeks.

A treat, of good oil, and a bit of TLC.

7Dii_iPhone 5s_2927First off – air filter – anyone want to hazard a guess as to which one is the old, and which one is the new one ?

50 points for you house if you get it right, 50 points deducted, if you get it wrong 🙂

To be honest, I think that is one of the worst looking air filters I have ever removed from a car.

Now, I know damn well, since I’ve owned this lump, it’s not had it’s pollen filter replaced, and the windscreen blowers has about as much oooomph as an asthmatic ant, so something quite clearly wasn’t all right there, and I was fully prepared to do a lot of work to get that working, bearing in mind it’s now winter.

7Dii_iPhone 5s_2926However, let’s first do the cheap and simple (sorta) option, and replace a filter.

Again, a test, which is the new, and which is the old ?

Right: No brainer right ?

If only it was that easy.

In VAG’s infinite wisdom, the location for the pollen filter, is under the left hand side of the windscreen – it makes getting at it a bit of a pain, which might not be hugely evident form the following shots

7Dii_iPhone 5s_2928 7Dii_iPhone 5s_2929

Above: It looks easy enough right ? Well, it is very tight in there, so tight in fact that trying to get the filter to fit, and clip/click into place when there really isn’t enough headroom to have the filter above the filter recepticle is a little deciveing.

7Dii_iPhone 5s_2930 7Dii_iPhone 5s_2931

Once in however, it is rather neat, and then just make sure you tidy up all the little plastic/rubber edges away to their location, otherwise they look crap, and foul up neat closing of the bonnet.

7Dii_iPhone 5s_2932 7Dii_iPhone 5s_2933

Below: All complete.

7Dii_iPhone 5s_2934

To be fair, it is neat and unobtrusive, but the first time you replace this, it’s a definite test of patience, dexterity, and smallness of hands (I definitely fail at that last one)

And – the heaters are now most certainly *NOT* an asthmatic ant, definitely more usable in the winter months now.

 

Tie rod ends – bugger!

I’d taken Olivia for a set of new boots, and the lovely chaps at Wheatley Tyres showed real care and customer service by checking the suspension setup as part of putting the newly shod wheels back onto the car, when they noticed that the left hand steering arm had some significant “play” in the top ball joint.

Then top ball joint is actually the tie rod end, the union of the tie rod, which comes straight from the steering rack, to the hub carrier, and thus not only travels left to right as part of normal steering, but has vertical movement in the form of suspension travel – and thus must be a ball joint..

Thankfully, replacement is (should be) a relatively trivial affair, undo a bolt to separate the end from the hub carrier, give it a nudge to loosen any purchase the hub carrier has to the bolt, and then unwind off the steering arm – and then reverse it all –  however, Olivia, being Olivia, that wasn’t to be – oh no…

7Dii_IMG_1457It started easy enough on the left side, turn the wheels all the way to the right to give space, jack car up, and support properly (for me – and everyone else, that reads axle stands people – a jack isn’t a proper support – ever!) – remove the wheel, and put somewhere safe outta the way.

Next,  slide in an Allen key to the hex hole in the bottom of the bolt through the hub carrier, and use a spanner to undo the nut.

Right: I’ve almost undone the bottom nut to the point where I can start thinking about separating things.

7Dii_IMG_1458Take the nut off, and using a ball splitter, and in my case, a little persuader in the form of a 4lb club hammer (right) pry the bolt out of the hub carrier.

A quick mark on the steering rod, to mark the place where the tie-rod end  holding nut is in place – undo this locking nut, and then un-screw the rod-end itself, counting the number of full revolutions until it comes off the end.

So far – so good. (below)

7Dii_IMG_1460Re-fittting is of course, the reverse, make sure the threads on the steering arm are clean, and put a tiny bit of grease to help prevent them ever seizing to the steering rod, and do up the tie rod end all the way to your mark, double checking with the number of rotations as you go.

Once you’ve screwed the rod-end into your mark, then you need to tighten it on with the captive nut on the steering arm.

Dead easy – up to the point it locks against the rod end – and then nip it up tight.

 

7Dii_IMG_1459Right – we have a nice shot showing the replaced tie-rod end prior to me doing up the end lock nut, and attaching the rod-end to the hub carrier.

Nice and shiny ain’t it ? 😀

Next thread the bolt part through the hub-carrier, and fit the supplied new nut on the end, and tighten to the correct torque (look it up – I’ve forgotten!)

Stick wheel back on, lower car, and rinse and repeat the other side, and then go and get the tracking checked.

You’d think side two is really just that – rinse and repeat right ?

Hahahaha…

No.

7Dii_IMG_1463Some ignorant ape that had worked on the car prior to my purchase of it, had done a wonderful job in rounding off, and destroying any hex socket for any size Allen key to fit into the underside of the ball joint – so when I tried to undo the nut – the whole nut, and ball swiveled inside itself, and refused to come undone any further.

BUGGER.

Above right kinda shows the problem – there is no hex hole to put an Allen key in!

7Dii_IMG_1464Oh well – hacksaw to the rescue.

A good few minutes, and a fair bit of cussing later, we have a bolt cut off..

Right: See how much of a mess that Allen key hex is ?

That ain’t gonna work no matter how hard you try.

Well – this “minor” problem out of the way, and it’s follow the earlier principles, of undoing the lock-nut, marking the position, and unscrewing the tie-rod end, and removing the now very dead unit, and replacing the whole lot.

7Dii_IMG_1482And finally – here on the right – we have it replaced, looking as new and perfect as it should do.

(yes – that tilt is perfectly fine – it’s gonna get a helluva lot more wiggly when it’s in use and the car is popping up and over bumps!)

Chalk off another challenge Olivia has given me, and one I’ve slapped aside as a “next please!”

Happy travels again 😀

 

 

New rear shocks.

I was digging around at the back of the car, and found some moisture on both the rear shocks – not something to worry about if you’ve been driving the car on wet roads, which I hadn’t.

Yeah, both rear shocks were failing, and had begun to leak, time to replace them or risk an inevitable MOT failure.

Thankfully Olivia, is a Quattro, it actually makes doing this work a little easier IMHO.

Ferrari are still cheats

Yes, this is another controversial post, so what, it’s a controversial issue.

Formula 1 has engineered itself criticism again, through the same rules that got the sport into hot water years ago, and even more worrying – by the same team, Ferrari.

I fully agree that it’s a team sport, and one driver should be able to help out the other driver, but, and this to my mind is crucial, it should be that driver’s choice, not the team’s enforcement.

However, once one driver doesn’t have a realistic expectation to win the title, then, I think it is a reasonable expectation from the team that the driver should “move over” during the course of a race, and again, crucially, if, and *only* if that driver’s team-mate is immediately behind them on the track – but *not* by the team deliberately sabotaging the drivers car in the case of what Ferrari did to Massa’s car at the US GP.

What they did, was to deliberately break the seal on the gearbox of Massa’s car, so that they would deliberately get a penalty, of 5 grid positions for Massa, thus both dropping Massa behind Alonso, but also pushing Alonso to the “clean” side of the grid.

That is deciding the outcome of a race outside the scope of actual racing miles.

A race has got to be defined as multiple cars and drivers doing their best with their talents and machinery, to beat the next man out there, the desire to battle it out against all others, and come out on top.

This fight is why I like Hamilton’s style, he is that fighter, like Schumacher, Senna, and Mansell were. (and, to my eyes, a little unlike Prost, Button, Hill, good but too “professor-ish” only doing *just* enough)

Did it work ? Well, it appears that way, Alonso got a good start, and ended up on the podium.

Did it influence the outcome of the championship, definitely, it has pushed the championship to the last race, Bernie and the FIA have got to be delighted about that, which is one reason I think that no sanctions will be metered out to Ferrari.

Ferrari says, through Domenicali, that the deliberate tampering of the seal on Massa’s car was done within the rules, ok, maybe I grant them that, at least to the letter of the rules, however, he also says it was done within the boundaries of the “spirit of the rules”

That, I very much disagree with.

The spirit of any rules in *any* sport is to ensure a fair, consistent level playing field amongst all competitors, this artificial tampering, alters those rules, it changes the playing field, it creates a nasty taste in the mouth.

All the drivers that busted a gut in qualifying, i.e. all of them, ended up the session knowing where they were, and by all judges in the crowd, you know, the important ones, the ones that *PAID* to see the quail session, they had witnessed a proper shoot-out, people ended up in grid slots that were appropriate to the level of  skill, both from car, and driver.

To alter that when *NO* technical rules were broken, is quite frankly appalling.

The grid place penalty is there for one reason, to penalise the driver/team of the car that has *unfairly* gained an advantage through either poor driving, or infringement of the technical rules that ensure the level playing field, such as ensuring the same level of reliability by restrictions on number of gearboxes etc.

Now, if Massa’s gearbox had really broken, then ok, not a problem, but it hadn’t.

I also not sure about the status of things such that if an engineer saw that a gearbox was *going* to fail at some point during the race, should the team be allowed to change it and incur a penalty?

No, I think they should be forced to race, and take the consequences, i.e. a retirement, that is a *MUCH* bigger penalty for mechanical failure than a 5 place grid drop in my (very humble) opinion.

Anyway, back to the “problem” with Massa and his deliberately tampered with gearbox seal.

Well, the 5 place drop made 5 other cars change their positions on the grid.

OK, some could argue that someone who was in 5th, now got promoted to 4th, but, it’s not that easy.

At all circuits, there is a “beneficial” side of the circuit as that is the side of the circuit that the racing line is on, and this means there is more rubber laid down, on this piece of tarmac, which means there is more grip.

In Austin, the track is new, so there is a massive difference in the two sides of the track, so those that qualified in the odd side of the track, and thus behind pole, are on the grippier, or better side of the track.

So, the demotion of Massa, meant a group of drivers got penalised by being put onto the less grippy side of the track – HOWEVER – in Alonso’s case, this meant that he went from the less perfect side, to the better side – all for the team.

Bottom line – Ferrari artificially altered the grid, thus Alonso’s chances in the race at the *detriment* to a number of other drivers on the grid, and *not* because of a technical infringement or technical failure, but by a cynical manipulation of the rules, in complete contrast to the spirit of the said rules.

Martin Whitmarsh, the Mclaren team boss, is a little on the fence.

Reading between his lines here, I get the distinct impression that he doesn’t approve, and also from the same article, I get the impression other teams feel a little uncomfortable.

I can understand why, I feel uncomfortable as a spectator (albeit armchair one)

From where I sit, could I say, that in my humble opinion that Ferrari have brought the crown in the motorsport world into disrepute again ?

Yes – I do, that is what I would charge Ferrari with, bringing the sport into disrepute, but I will bet that no action is taken at the FIA, as it made the last race of the season the title decider, and that will pull in the crowds in Brazil, and on the TV…. and make Bernie a fair few more dollars.